Late April chill, wind buffeting the trees, and spring blossoms flying through the air -- soup needed. Hot soup. And what a bowl of miso soup -- more like a sink of miso soup. An earthenware bowl, filled with miso and scallions and bean sprouts and onions -- and floating on the top, the most delicious grilled shitake mushrooms. You can taste the fire in the shitakes. Accompanying the soup, a huge side bowl of sticky white rice, perfectly done. Six dollars for the soup and the rice -- and let the April chill rage on, for nothing hits the spot so well as this incredible miso soup in this very stylish and well-lit and clean canteen. You might well be in Tokyo -- without the long flight.