Ah, Roma—in August…. When the tourists have descended and the locals have fled. And you find yourself there on a holiday weekend, a Sunday at that—when many dining establishments have closed—for the season. There’s only one choice: head to le Jardin de Russie.

For years, Hotel de Russie attracted Europe’s best and brightest—or at least its most wealthy and royal. But then the war came, the second one, and the building was handed over to Italian television—and it wasn’t until 2001 that the Rocco Forte Collection reenvisioned the Hotel de Russie, making it once again as celebrated as its history.

As for dining, it’s all about the garden. Dining at le Jardin de Russie enables one an insider’s view of what lies behind so many of those imposing portals situated all over Rome and Florence. You walk through the minimalist lobby and a nearly-austere lounge (both of which are perfect examples of how rooms can be comfortable and welcoming when not overstuffed with….well, stuff) and you follow the candlelight, out onto a large terrace with wrought-iron tables, and then up a double-sided stone staircase draped with vines, and there you are: atop a small plateau, set with tables and surrounded by juniper and cypress, and the buzz of fellow ex-pats, brimming with self-congratulation at having had the good sense to find themselves here on a warm summer’s night.

It’s all very Roman Holiday and the luscious brunette at the table over near the staircase to the Pincio Hill where lies a secret garden and butterfly oasis (funded by World Wildlife Fund) might well be a minor European royal—about to run off with her driver. Candlelight in summer is so romantic—alongside the clink of crystal and silver alternating with the murmur of conversation. Everyone’s glowing—and interested in who’s dining at the next table.

Meanwhile, there’s the food: a perfectly-balanced summer salad, a plate of pasta and tomatoes, the basil fragrancing the air—and a bottle of Pinot. Conversation flows as smoothly as the service is adept—and why not? Le Jardin de Russie is an oasis where contentment reigns.