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Hotel
Portrait Suites
via Bocca de Leone 23, 00187 Rome, Italy
by Mark Thompson & Robert Doyle
August 19, 2007
 
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Rooms
Let’s be perfectly clear here: this is the best room we’ve encountered during the past five years. These are more than rooms—and more than suites, even. Rather these accommodations are private apartments—to further the impression that you are indeed living la dolce vita in one of the more chic and stylish townhouses in the center of Rome. And another thing: one night is nowhere near enough at Portrait Suites. In fact, one week might not be enough—and there are some who might be inclined to think about purchasing—or at the very least, reproducing in their own homes every element of Michele Bonan’s exquisitely-appointed and perfectly-designed “portrait suites.” Bonan has successfully managed to create a series of spaces that not only perpetuate the legendary Salvatore Ferragamo’s sublime taste but also envision Ferragamo living in today’s world—with all its bells and whistles. These are apartments that immediately soothe one into a state of bliss—with the realization that everything has been taken care of—and nothing remains but to relax in hushed and understated splendor.

Public Spaces
While there’s no restaurant, and instead a sitting room/reading lounge which also serves as reception, Portrait Suites has a breathtaking rooftop lounge with views of the Piazza di Spagna and Trinita de’ Monti—and to find yourself there of a summer evening, with a cocktail from the honor bar (tucked into a sleek rooftop kitchenette), as the bells of Roma ring the city at sunset is to realize that heaven exists on earth and from here on, quotidian life pales, and you have now earned the envy of all your earthly friends. Obviously, temperate weather matters for the enjoyment of this private perch—and if you are blessed with a beautiful morning, take breakfast here—and ascend again closer to heaven.

Breakfast
Or you can take breakfast in your room—er, private apartment—where an impeccably tailored man delivers a trolley crafted as only Italians can design, with such attention to detail, and laid with such linens and silver as to make you sigh, and a basket of breads and pastries which might make a French baker weep—and coffee only to be found in Italy… And all this bounty served on the low-sitting dining table with two matching gray upholstered slipper chairs, while Ella sings from the Tivoli stereo (with iPod connection)… It’s clear then; no doubt about it: this is your life as a Italian Cinecitta screen star of the Sixties—and you’re never going back to the life you left behind.

Staff
More like a private staff, complete with majordomo, houseman and butler—and all of them perfectly willing, and able, to please, nearly regardless of your request.

Location
For an inveterate shopper, this is hog heaven. And for people watching, particularly the passeggiata, it’s delectable. And for feeling a part of a rarefied Rome, it doesn’t get better.

Overview
Portrait Suites is perfectly suited for those individuals with elevated taste and a heightened appreciation for design—as well as for those who cherish their privacy and independence. For to reside at Portrait Suites, even for only one night, enables a glimpse of the life one was meant to live—every single night of life.
 

 
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