Though the address is 88th and Broadway, once you cross the threshold of Aix, you might easily imagine that you’ve entered the private home of a wealthy Park Avenue industrialist with sublime taste in furnishings and a knack for surrounding him/herself with the right kind of people.  There’s such a warm glow and pleasant buzz that immediately you feel at home.  This is clearly the townhouse you’ve been searching for, ever since you arrived in Manhattan – and you’re ready to move in tomorrow.  There’s a person to take your coats and another to lead you upstairs to your table, through a lounge and past a throng so convivial and animated you might, on any other evening, consider joining them for drinks and nibbles.  But to do so would be to miss out on a lovely mezzanine perch overlooking the lights of Broadway and the cabs moving up and down the avenue in such orderly fashion, and also you would miss the table of ten celebrants, so well-coiffed and well-heeled that surely they must’ve migrated from the East Side for the evening.  There’s a birthday and she’s lovely: silver-haired and chic in a striking Chanel suit.

And meanwhile, at your table, the waiter is patient and thorough as your guests request something without dairy – and this at a French restaurant.  Mais ce n’est pas un problem.  Nothing is a problem at Aix.  The cocktails are innovative, variants on classic with fresh ingredients, such as an apple martini infused with les pommes vrais.  The menu is particularly accommodating, not only for vegetarians but for those on particular diets, and yet still succeeds in honoring one of the great culinary traditions of the world.  Order from the grill if you are on a specific regime, or from a pasta/sandwich carte if you’re not feeling particularly famished.   An appetizer of grilled marinated asparagus with baby red, yellow and candy striped beets, shitake mushrooms, goat cheese and walnut vinaigrette is hearty, the asparagus thick enough to sink your teeth into.  And an entree of basmati risotto with roasted porcini mushrooms, parmesan, thyme and garlic sabayon is rich without becoming cloying, the basmati rice keeping it light and toothful without the customary heaviness of risotto.  Similarly, the papardelle tossed with brown butter, roasted garlic, cracked pepper and arugula has a luxuriant smoothness with a complementary bite.  Desserts are equally elegant: medjool dates stuffed with almonds warmed with vanilla, cinnamon, Acacia honey and served with crème fraiche ice cream, and also a perfectly-sized Meyer lemon souffle.  The coffee arrives in a silver pot.  The waitstaff is attired in black, and ever-attentive, without being fawning.  Clearly, there’s a majordomo at this townhouse who knows that guest comfort is a laudable goal and always within reach. 

Time passes, the night wanes, and yet still there’s the clink of crystal and the flow of conversation, laughter from below.  It’s tempting to inquire about breakfast.  Suddenly the thought of leaving such a pleasing environment is almost too much to bear – for Aix is the restaurant you might wish were home.