Nestled in a quiet corner of Tribeca, the restaurant Turks and
Frogs (so named for its exemplary Turkish cuisine as well as
the fact that the owners once sold French antiques) was not so
long ago “discovered” by Daily Candy, and thereafter, slammed –
so much so that people lined the street waiting for a table. In
contrast, a recent summer Saturday afternoon found the
establishment calm and quiet, with only two tables occupied –
and the resultant meal was as relaxing as a languorous afternoon
on the Bosphorus.
Housed in a former
stonemason’s studio and furnished with a variety of Turkish and
French antiques, amongst them ancient olive oil pots, and with
the noon-day sun splashing across the wood floors, Turks and
Frogs creates an ambience both homey and esoteric. Turkish wines
punctuate the wine list, and the huge tray of cold meze which
the waiter obligingly brings around to each table includes
staples such as grape leaves, taramasala, and bean salads, but
also lebni, the walnut and yogurt confection, and several kinds
of eggplant, all delicious. There’s also a salad called coban
which is piquant and refreshing, and phyllo scrolls, crispy and
golden brown, oozing herbed feta. And
all served with a warm Turkish bread which
begs to be dipped: into the olive oil, the
hummus, and the perfectly-balanced lemony
dressing drizzled over the salad.
To finish, order Turkish
coffee, and once you’ve reached the sludge at the bottom, flip
over your cup and let the sludge run down for a few minutes.
Once time has passed, flip the cup back over and read your
future into the grounds which have dried along the cup’s sides.
Who know what you might see – perhaps a boat sailing you through
the Bosphorus strait, leaving one world behind for another. |