Before you indulge at the latest Mediterranean
outpost from the folks who brought you Marseille and Nice-Matin
(amongst other French bistros scattered around town which
constitute the Tour de France Restaurant Group), there are two
words you should know. The first is Nizza, the name of
the group’s latest restaurant, which is what the Italians called
the town of Nice
on the French Riviera (and which should afford you ample clues
about Nizza’s culinary focus).
Which brings us to the other word, socca, a
shining example of that region’s culinary
prowess, which in this case is the insanely
delicious crispy chickpea crêpe seasoned
with olive oil, onion, sage, and Pecorino
that you’re bound to see on nearly every
second table within view.
Given the restaurant’s geographical antecedents, the current
penchant for retro Italian Sixties interior design makes perfect
sense in this intimate space. Everything’s sleek and shiny new,
accented with orange leather—and even the harsh acoustics can’t
diminish the impact of such delicious food. There’s a sinfully
rich fried ravioli with crescenza cheese—and just as
served at Marseille, and equally sinful, panisses, those
chickpea frites served with a chipotle aioli. There’s also a
killer cocktail with a kick, mixed with the newly popular Aperol,
that Italian aperitif made of bitter orange, gentian, and
rhubarb. Warning: two cocktails might find you thinking about
skipping your theatre date—and ordering another socca
instead. Plan accordingly.
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