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Restaurant
Clarke's Miami Beach
840 First Street, Miami Beach, Fl
by Mark Thompson & Robert Doyle
July 31, 2008
 
www.clarkesmiamibeach.com Bookmark and Share

With its neon green shamrock sign, it’s easy to mistake Clarke’s for yet another Irish burger-and-beer joint or a Cheers wannabe.  The mistake, however, would be in not moving beyond the signage—and missing the inviting interior and genuine conviviality of this South of Fifth local favorite.  Open since September 2005, and located within spitting distance of Joe’s Stone Crab, Clarke’s embodies the restaurant’s motto Céad míle fáilte, an Irish greeting meaning "a hundred thousand welcomes."  Of course, owner Laura Cullen is a woman raised in her father’s Greenwich Village landmark restaurant Sazerac House, so it’s perhaps not surprising that Clarke’s looks to linger in the nabe’s embrace as long as Joe’s. 

Not unlike one of those British Empire outposts (such as the Hog Penny in Hamilton, Bermuda, for example) Clarke’s has the requisite mahogany bar and mirrors—as well as upholstered benches and black and white prints of old Miami.  It’s a linen napkin pub, with charming floral arrangements by local florist Flower Bazaar on every table.  There are also television screens above the bar—and between the animated conversations of sports fans and chairs scraping across the stone floor, the acoustics can be daunting.  Give in to the din, however, and order a pint of Guinness—as well as an order of Parmesan truffle fries that arrive piping hot in a folded linen napkin.

The food at Clarke’s might be called Irish-American comfort; appetizers include mac-and-cheese, corn chowder, a wedge salad and a chopped salad, all of them done better even than you might remember your mother’s versions, or those served at the local country club.  Sides include the aforementioned fries (also available in traditional or curry) as well as garlicky wilted spinach, and just about the best oven roasted Brussels sprouts you’ll find in South Beach.  For dessert, there’s Clarke’s bread pudding soufflé, with Jameson Irish Whiskey sauce—a deliciously light ending to a meal that might have you thinking about another Guinness, or perhaps a wee bit of that Jameson’s on the side.  Here’s to the Irish in South Beach—and to the luck of all of us who find ourselves dining at Clarke’s.
 

 
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