One redeeming joy of a hyper New York life is the discovery of
an oasis of serenity amidst the maelstrom. Located at one of
those sometimes-threatening five-way intersections, and kitty-kornered
from Eighth Street, oft-referred to as Shoe
Row, Gobo is precisely the kind of
restaurant you wouldn’t expect to find on
the lower reaches of Sixth Avenue. But
almost as soon as you open the large wooden
door and step into the well-proportioned
vestibule with its stone floors and mahogany
reception desk, a wash of calm disarms you
and you realize you’ve left the crowded
Village sidewalks far behind.
With an interior design by
Tony Chi and Associates, the abundance of warm woods and
fabrics, and a soothing palette of amber, cream and brown go a
long way toward creating a zenlike space in which to showcase
the cuisine of Yuki Chen, one of the founder/creators of Zen
Palate, another temple of haute vegetarian cuisine. “Food for
the five senses” is Gobo’s mandate and the look of the room, a
kind of high-end airport lounge, prepares you for the flights of
fancy awaiting you on your plate. Emphasizing nori, seitan,
soy, tofu, and konnyaku (a Japanese root vegetable flour), as
well as an abundance of root vegetables and mushrooms, greens
and rices, this is food which smells delicious as its prepared
to order in the open kitchen, and which goes down easily with
the well-chosen wines and beers. It’s no wonder there seem to
be a profusion of happy people surrounding you – and not only
happy but exceptionally attractive. Which makes you consider
yet again the value of a vegetarian cuisine and its role in good
skin – as well as the rumors you’ve heard about a certain few
neighborhood celebrities who consider Gobo their kitchen away
from home. Given Gobo’s stylish setting and pleasing atmosphere
and the many pleasures of its food, you might consider making it
yours as well.
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