Just saying the name is fun—la palapa—and even more so if you know what it means: a palm-thatched shelter on a beach. Almost immediately, your mind conjures an idyllic scene: you and your sweetie oceanfront, your toes in the water, ice cold beverages within reach—and servers awaiting your next desire.

Admittedly, the scene at the two La Palapas in the East and West Villages is somewhat less serene. More like a party—and sometimes a long spring break at that. The volume can be loud which is at least partially attributable to the margaritas which are strong and delicious and which are at least partially necessary to mitigate the spicy fire of some of the more delectable and extremely authentic Mexican specialties. In truth, we might prefer the East Village locale, perhaps because it was first by three years (2000), and also because it fits seamlessly into the St. Marks neighborhood vibe—while the West Village location on Sixth can sometimes be somewhat closer to the “Sex and the City” wannabe crowd.

In either location, however, you’re going to be fed well—particularly if you start with something like potato taquitos and several ears of that incredible market style corn on the cob with its combination of lime, mayo, chile piquin, and queso cotija. Follow those savory snacks with an authentic ensalada Cesar Cardini, prepared as the originator, Senor Cardini, did in Tijuana way back during Prohibition. And keep on ordering—you almost can’t go wrong with the food here—and even though you’re probably going to be stuffed, you should think about dessert, particularly that pastel tres leches. You know it: that moist cake drizzled with three milks topped with fluffy meringue icing—and even better, the waitress knows you want it. She can see it in your eyes—and you’re going to eat what you can, and take the rest home to the icebox—to remind you of your idyllic sojourn at La Palapa. You’ll be back, guaranteed.