Thursday eve in the East Village, a spring breeze blows through the open doors -- and the circular front bar is dotted with locals. This is COUNTER and very welcoming it is. A front bar/lounge with a simple dining room just beyond, banquettes along the wall. The details: a sprig of mint tucked into the cloth napkins tied with brown string. A blueberry saketini is a most beautiful color. And the food? A gazpacho unlike any other -- more a tomato water broth, the essence of spring elegance. A raw shaved asparagus salad, crunchy and fresh. Corn cakes so cleanly fried and sweet and plump. A bed of spring ramps -- this is delicious fresh food which makes you happy to be vegetarian. This is food which celebrates eating. This is a restaurant which could well be a prototype for truly global cuisine -- food you can eat and enjoy with no guilt. There's a glow of happiness at COUNTER, for good reason. One caveat: happiness is not cheap.