Want the thunder of the crowd at the Garden? Sit down for dinner at Barbuto when the garage doors are closed and the next table over is a four-top of Sopranos extras with lung power and six cell phones. Ready to order? See if you can find a waiter. That cocktail you wanted? They're out of it. (Out of a cocktail? Hello?) Want bread and butter? Go elsewhere. You like pepper? Good, because the risotto and the garganelli have been marinated with the pepper mill. On a diet? Good, because the portion is the size of a baby's fist. Thinking about dessert? Don't bother. At this point, your headache is so serious you'll need Extra-Strength Excedrin. Next time? There won't be.