Rooms
Located in two early nineteenth-century stone buildings on rue St. Paul Ouest (which flanks the St. Lawrence river), the Nelligan’s suites include fireplaces—and given that we don’t have a fireplace at our domicile, we’re thrilled to find out we’ve been upgraded. Mind you, this particular suite is on the first floor—which means no view, or rather a view of a stone wall. And yes, the suite is a bit dark—but then so is Montreal in October. That fireplace more than compensates for the non-existent view, and so does the Jacuzzi in the bathroom, large enough to seat four comfortably—which is good given that there’s no shower. Therefore, we’re forced to bathe—and linger, longer than usual. Forced relaxation—there are worse ways of finding inner peace. Furthermore, the bath products are exquisite (and abundant): a company called Essential Elements.

Overall, the suite’s design scheme might be described as cozy chic. Think Pottery Barn’s high-end line, or perhaps Room and Board. Furnishings are dark and textured, chenille and velour, a walnut-framed mirror, nickel-plated hardware—all of which complement the stonework and the brick walls. There’s a wall-length desk/console and an ebony coffee table in front of a plush couch. For some people, the suite might feel like a cave—but for us, it’s a perfect sanctuary: comfy and cozy and private.

Public Spaces
Cleverly designed to flow one into the other, the Nelligan has created no less than four public spaces for enjoying cocktails, breakfast, tea, or conversation.

At the far end of the lobby (and with its own separate entrance onto rue St. Paul Ouest), the restaurant Verses serves us a delightful meal while we wait for our suite to be readied. Complete with starched linens and heavy silver, there is, nonetheless, a kind of relaxed European elegance about the room. We surrounded by businessmen and couples—and two extremely fashionable parents who arrive, three youngsters in tow. At first we’re nervous: children at the next table. But quickly we realize we’re witnessing one of the most well behaved families on the planet. The parents are clearly perfect, and the children adore them, in an unobtrusive manner—and as for us, we’re hypnotized in love.

Next door to Verses, through a large portal, there’s the atrium lounge/bar, a lovely spot for a glass of wine—or should one prefer tea, there’s a library/lounge beyond that, complete with piano, and finally, an indoor verandah with a view onto the street. The flow is as easy and gracious as the vibe.

Breakfast
Presented on the bar in the atrium, the breakfast buffet comprises some of the best European breakfast traditions: pastry and croissants, muesli and yogurt, honey and coffee, and fruit. The service is polished and courteous—and a gentle reminder of the overall kindness of the people of Montreal.

Staff
Maybe it’s in the water. Something that enables the hospitality industry in Montreal to be so pleasant. They rarely seem harried, and never impolite. There’s calmness in their voices, and sweetness in their smiles. And when we request a hostess gift for a party we’re attending, they beautifully wrap a box of house chocolates.

Location
In the heart of Vieux Montreal, along the horse and buggy route, the Nelligan is but a few paces to the river. Shops and restaurants abound—as do tourists from everywhere. But once one steps into the Nelligan’s lobby, there’s little sense of the bustle just outside its doors.

Overview
With its combination of refinement and comfort, the Nelligan reflects some of the best qualities of time spent in Montreal. One evening there’s a wedding reception filling the lobby—two grooms had tied the knot—and the joy evinced by the wedding guests spilled over and enveloped those of us staying at the hotel. Heartwarming, indeed; that’s the Nelligan.